Old Mine Cut vs. Old European Cut: What is the difference?

In this blog post, I will explain the difference between an Old Mine Cut and an Old European Cut – two iconic antique diamond cuts that originated in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Why antique diamonds are currently making a comeback

Over the past two years, a massive trend has emerged: vintage cuts – especially old mine and old European cuts – are back. And not just a little, but a real comeback.

The reasons are manifold: Couples are once again seeking unique engagement rings. They're looking for designs with a story, not just standard diamonds. Pinterest is seeing triple-digit percentage increases for terms like "vintage cushion rings" or "1920s wedding rings."

And yes – stars like Taylor Swift have fueled the trend tremendously.

Especially here in Munich, I've noticed that many customers tell me during consultations that they want "something that not everyone has." A ring with character. A diamond that looks like love, not perfection.

What exactly is an old mine cut diamond?

The charm of a true vintage treasure

When you see an Old Mine Cut, you immediately sense its antique quality. I personally love this cut for one simple reason: it looks as if it came straight from an old Parisian jewelry workshop – cut by hand, imperfectly perfect, full of soul.

Typical characteristics of an Old Mine Cut:

• Cushion cut or slightly square shape
• Large, blocky facets
• High Crown
• Small table surface
• A more visible, larger culet
• A sparkle that one associates with candlelight

Many people are surprised by how different this cut looks when they first hold it. It departs completely from "Excellent" or "Ideal Cut"—yet still radiates a unique beauty. A beauty that more modern cuts simply cannot achieve.

Why couples choose this cut for engagement rings

• It immediately looks like an heirloom.
• It is extremely rare – genuine old mines make up less than 2% of today's supply.
• No two diamonds look exactly alike.
• It harmonizes beautifully with modern yellow gold ring designs.

Many couples consciously choose this because they say, "We want a ring that doesn't look like it came from mass production." And that's exactly what you get with an Old Mine Cut.

What is an Old European Cut diamond?

The classic round design with a vintage heart

The Old European Cut is the ancestor of the modern Round Brilliant – but with more depth, more character and less “perfection”.

Typical characteristics of an Old European Cut:

• Round, but not perfectly round by machine
• More precise than an old mine cut
• Harmonious, round sparkle
• Smaller table surface
• High Crown
• Culet present, but smaller than in the Old Mine Cut

When I show customers an Old European Cut, I often get this reaction: "Oh wow – it looks vintage, but still modern." And that's exactly what makes it special.

Who is the Old European Cut suitable for?

• For those who want round, but not modern and brilliant
• For Art Deco lovers
• For people who seek subtle elegance rather than "super sparkle".
• For couples who want to build a bridge between then and now

He is the perfect compromise between past and present.

Old Mine vs. Old European – the most important differences

1. The form

Old Mine: rather cushion-shaped, slightly square.
Old European: round, but with a slightly imperfect, handcrafted look.

2. The sparkle

Old Mine Cuts sparkle in broad, warm flashes of light – very romantic, almost “candlelight-like”.
Old European cuts sparkle more rounded, balanced and structured – an elegant, classic sparkle.

3. The style and the era

Old Mine: 1700-1800s, Georgian & Victorian periods.
Old European: circa 1880-1930, Edwardian & Art Deco.

4. The look on your finger

Old Mine Cuts look nostalgic, soft and "cuddly" – like a lovingly worn heirloom.
Old European cuts appear glamorous, classic and harmonious – perfect for a vintage look with clean lines.

5. Today in engagement rings and wedding rings

Both cuts are experiencing a true renaissance – especially in combination with:

• Yellow gold
• Delicate ribbons
• Fine crab
• Bezel frames
• Hand-engraved details

Many couples deliberately seek a ring with a history rather than a flawless, modern look.

Are Old Mine Cuts and Old European Cuts also available as lab-grown diamonds?

Yes. And that is one of the most exciting developments in the industry.

Today you will receive:

• Authentic antique designs with modern sustainability
• The look of historical cuts – but as a Lab Grown version
• An ideal combination of budget, size and appearance

At Designer Diamonds, we carry both:

• Old Mine Lab Grown Diamonds
• Old European Lab Grown Diamonds

…and the results are incredibly beautiful. Many customers can hardly tell the difference from a historical stone – but at the same time benefit from:

• Improved purity
• Better price
• Larger sizes
• Modern certification

How to choose the right antique finish

In our showrooms, I experience situations every day where a couple enters feeling uncertain – and leaves with a very clear feeling.

Old Mine Cut is right for you if…

• you want a diamond with soul and history
• you have fallen in love with cushion shapes
• You prioritize individuality over perfection
• you like yellow gold or vintage designs
• you want something that nobody else has

The Old European Cut suits you if…

• you love a round shape
• You want vintage, but not too rustic
• Do you feel Art Deco, Paris & the early 20th century
• you are looking for a compromise between modern and historical

My philosophy in this

Even if you skipped this part: I generally give advice the way I would want to be advised myself – honestly, directly, and with an eye for what you like.

Not what a lab says. Not what is "perfect". But what is beautiful for you.

Inspiration: How these antique cuts look in real rings

I always like to show my customers some of our designs to make the difference visible:

Old Mine Cut Rings

• Delicate yellow gold solitaires
• Vintage-inspired engravings
• Playful prong settings
• Designs that deliberately look like an "heirloom".

Old European Cut Rings

• Elegant Art Deco look
• Minimalist, modern frames
• Bezel & Compass Craps
• Combinations of platinum and yellow gold for optical depth

Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut in Munich and Augsburg

When you fall in love with an antique diamond, it has little to do with perfection. It has to do with feeling and history. With the desire to wear something that not only sparkles – but speaks.

If you'd like to see both cuts in person, please visit our showroom in Munich Moosach or in Augsburg. Together, we'll find the diamond that truly suits you – and your story. Simply schedule a personal consultation with Designer Diamonds and let us design your individual engagement ring or wedding bands.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is an old mine cut diamond?

An Old Mine Cut is a hand-cut, cushion-shaped diamond from the 18th-19th century with a strong vintage appeal. Its large facets and high crown make it look like a true treasure from a bygone era – perfect for unique engagement and wedding rings.

What is an Old European Cut diamond?

The Old European Cut is a round, antique cut dating from approximately 1890–1930. It is considered a precursor to the modern Round Brilliant, sparkles harmoniously and elegantly, and has a lot of vintage character – ideal if you want a round cut that is not “too modern”.

Which cut is better suited for engagement rings?

Both depend on your partner's style: Old Mine represents a romantic, antique, and cushion-shaped look; Old European a round, elegant, and vintage brilliant cut. Both cuts are beautiful in engagement rings – it all comes down to personal preference in shape and style.

Are these cuts also available as lab-grown diamonds?

Yes, both Old Mine and Old European Cuts are available as lab-grown diamonds. They offer the look of historical cuts with modern sustainability, attractive prices, and often larger carat weights – ideal for budget-friendly engagement and wedding rings.

Are antique cuts more expensive?

Often yes, especially genuine historic stones, because they are rare and in high demand. Lab-grown varieties in old mine or old European styles are a more affordable alternative without sacrificing the vintage look.

Does an antique diamond appear smaller?

Sometimes, an antique diamond with deeper pavilions can appear slightly more compact than a modern cut stone of the same carat weight. However, it often sparkles with a more three-dimensional and charming quality – with considerably more character.

How do I care for my antique diamond?

Have your ring checked regularly at a specialist shop to ensure the setting and prongs remain stable. Clean the diamond gently with lukewarm water, a little mild dish soap, and a soft brush, and avoid hard impacts or harsh chemicals to protect the antique cut and setting.

Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut in Munich and Augsburg

When you fall in love with an antique diamond, it has little to do with perfection. It has to do with feeling and history. With the desire to wear something that not only sparkles – but speaks.

If you'd like to see both cuts in person, please visit our showroom in Munich Moosach or Augsburg. Together we'll find the diamond that truly suits you – and your story.