What Is a Moval Cut? The Diamond Cut Between Marquise and Oval

The moval cut explained

A moval is a fancy cut, meaning a diamond cut other than the round brilliant. The shape is considerably longer than it is wide and resembles a stretched almond. The faceting normally follows the brilliant pattern, which means the diamond works with triangular and kite shaped facets rather than with steps like an emerald cut. Depending on the execution, the facet count is stated at roughly 65 to 72.

The decisive difference to the marquise lies at the two ends. A marquise tapers into two sharp points. On a moval these ends are rounded, or at least noticeably softened. This changes both the appearance and the everyday practicality. Points are the most vulnerable parts of a diamond, because that is where the mass is minimal and the pressure is at its highest. Without the point, the risk of chipping in daily wear drops noticeably.

At the same time the elongated outline remains. At the same carat weight a moval looks larger than a round brilliant, because a greater share of the mass goes into the surface rather than into the depth. In trade language a cut like this is called spready. On the hand the shape lengthens the fingers optically.

Where the name comes from

Moval is a portmanteau of marquise and oval. The term therefore does not describe a historical cut category of its own, but an intermediate shape that was named after the fact. This is exactly where the underlying problem comes from that you will run into during your research.

Several accounts of its origin circulate side by side. Some sources date the shape to the early 20th century and assign it to the art deco period. Others point to Georgian and Victorian predecessors in the 18th and 19th centuries. A US diamond house, in turn, describes the cut as a modern development merely inspired by an Edwardian silhouette, and has registered the accented spelling as a trademark. There is no solid gemmological evidence for any of these versions. Anyone who presents you with a definitive origin story is selling you a narrative, not a source.

Why there is no consistent definition

The moval is not a standardised cut. The major laboratories do not list a shape designation of its own for it. On a certificate such a diamond therefore usually appears as a modified brilliant in an oval or marquise like shape. There are no ideal proportions to test against, and no cut grade that confirms the light performance for you.

The result is that different suppliers sell different shapes under the same word. The overview below shows how far apart the published figures for the length to width ratio actually are.

Quoted L/W ratio	Visual effect	Closer to
1.40 to 1.60	full, calm, wide centre	Oval
1.60 to 1.75	balanced, classic moval silhouette	balanced
1.75 to 2.00	slender, distinctly elongated	Marquise
above 2.00	very long, higher risk of a bow tie	Marquise

The descriptions of the ends contradict each other as well. Some suppliers speak of fully rounded ends, others of softly tapering points. Both are sold as a moval. For you this means one thing in practice: the term alone says nothing about the shape you will end up holding in your hand. Rely on measurements and on the sight of the actual diamond. How to read a length to width ratio properly is explained in detail in our article on fancy cut diamonds.

Moval, oval and marquise in direct comparison

Criterion	Oval	Moval	Marquise
Ends	rounded	softly tapering	pointed
Typical L/W	1.30 to 1.50	1.50 to 2.00	1.85 to 2.10
Vulnerable areas	none pronounced	narrow ends	two points
Certified cut grade	no	no	no
Availability	high	very low	medium

Fancy cuts never receive a cut grade the way a round brilliant does. This applies to the moval just as it does to the oval and the marquise. Which shape suits your hand and your daily life best can be narrowed down with our article which diamond shape suits you. Another rare variant from the same family is described in our article on the dutch marquise cut.

The bow tie effect on a moval

On all elongated cuts a dark shadow can sit across the centre of the diamond. It appears when some of the facets do not direct the light back to the eye but instead reflect the shadow of the viewer. The shape recalls a bow tie, hence the name.

A bow tie is not a law of nature. It is the consequence of proportions and facet alignment. A cleanly cut moval shows at most a slight darkening that dissolves as the diamond moves. A poorly proportioned one shows a permanent black bar that remains even under good light. The certificate says nothing about this. You will only spot it by turning the diamond in your hand, in normal daylight and not under a sales lamp.

That is the practical core of buying a moval. With a round brilliant you can largely rely on figures. With a moval, looking at it is what decides.

What to look for when buying

Colour

Elongated brilliant cuts show any existing colour tint more clearly than a round brilliant, because the light travels longer paths inside the diamond. If a colourless impression matters to you, you should aim one grade higher on a moval than you would on a round brilliant. This becomes most visible at the narrow ends.

Clarity

What matters is not the letter combination on the certificate, but whether the diamond looks clean to the naked eye. On a moval the viewer's attention rests on the open table in the centre. Inclusions in this zone stand out more than inclusions near the girdle.

Girdle thickness

At the narrow ends the girdle tapers very thin. If it is too sharp there, the diamond becomes vulnerable during setting and in everyday wear. A slightly stronger girdle costs a minimum of visual effect and gains a great deal of safety. This point is rarely mentioned, because it is hard to fit into a product description.

Symmetry

Both halves should mirror each other. A moval with uneven shoulders is immediately noticeable once the diamond is set, and it cannot be corrected afterwards. Hold the diamond upright in front of you and rotate it around its long axis.

How we go about the selection in practice is described in our article choosing diamonds properly.

Suitable settings

A moval wears best when the setting picks up the shape instead of interrupting it. Three variants have proven themselves.

• Solitaire with adapted prongs. At the ends the prongs sit along the long axis and protect exactly the zone that is most vulnerable. The number is usually six.
• Bezel. A surrounding setting encloses the outline completely. It emphasises the elongated line most strongly and is the most robust solution for daily wear.
• East west orientation. Set crosswise, the diamond appears wider rather than longer. This is a deliberate design decision and changes the character of the ring completely.

Because movals appear in almost no production collection, a ring like this is generally created as a bespoke piece. The ring is constructed around the existing diamond and not the other way round. In our goldsmith workshop in Augsburg this means we record the exact measurements of the diamond before the first line of the ring is drawn. You can also sketch out first ideas yourself, in the ring configurator.

What a moval costs

There is no list price. At the same quality, the premium over a comparable oval or a comparable marquise is usually between ten and fifteen percent. Two reasons lie behind this.

First, the loss of material. A moval is created from a rough diamond that was actually intended for an oval or a marquise. The cutter deliberately decides against the more efficient standard shape. Whatever weight is lost ends up in the price.

Second, the time involved. Without standard proportions there is no routine. Every diamond is assessed individually.

With lab grown diamonds the premium is lower, because the rough material is more predictable and can be grown specifically for one shape. The differences between the two origins are set out in our article lab grown and natural diamonds compared. Antique examples from the old cut range, occasionally offered as an old mine moval, follow a pricing logic of their own and belong more to the world of vintage jewellery.

A note on the name

The accented spelling is a registered trademark and is run by a single supplier as their in house signature cut. The descriptive use of the term moval for the family of shapes between marquise and oval is a separate matter. So if a moval is offered to you, it is not automatically the same cut that this supplier sells under its brand name. When in doubt, ask for the measurements and not for the name.

Who the moval suits

The moval is a deliberate decision against the standard selection. It suits you if you like an elongated shape but want to avoid the points of a marquise in daily wear. It suits you if it matters to you that nobody else wears the same ring. It suits you less if you expect a quick choice from a broad stock, or if a certificate with a clear cut grade is what gives you confidence.

We work with elongated cuts regularly, both for engagement rings and for the matching wedding rings that will later sit alongside them. An overview of unusual shapes can be found under diamonds in special shapes. Both showrooms, Munich and Augsburg, keep comparison diamonds that let you see oval, moval and marquise side by side.

Frequently asked questions about the moval cut

What exactly is a moval cut?

A moval is an elongated diamond cut between the marquise and the oval. The outline is stretched like a marquise, but the ends taper softly instead of into points. The name is a blend of marquise and oval.

Is moval an official cut designation?

No. The major laboratories do not list a shape category of its own for it. On the certificate such a diamond usually appears as a modified brilliant in an oval or marquise like shape.

What length to width ratio does a moval have?

This varies considerably. The figures quoted by different suppliers range from roughly 1.40 to 2.25. A value between 1.60 and 1.80 is considered balanced. Anything above looks distinctly slender, anything below moves closer to an oval.

What is the difference between a moval and an oval?

An oval is rounder and noticeably shorter, usually at a ratio of 1.30 to 1.50. The moval is longer and tapers more narrowly at the ends.

What is the difference between a moval and a marquise?

The marquise ends in two sharp points. The moval does without them. This makes it less vulnerable in daily wear and gives it a slightly calmer look.

Does a moval look larger than a round brilliant?

Yes, at the same carat weight. The reason is the larger visible surface seen from above. This requires clean proportioning, otherwise the effect comes at the cost of light return.

What is the bow tie effect and how serious is it?

A dark shadow across the centre that can occur on elongated cuts. A slight hint of it is normal and disappears with movement. A permanent black bar is a reason to walk away and is not documented on the certificate.

Do I get a cut grade for a moval?

No. Fancy cuts do not receive a cut grade the way a round brilliant does. The certificate documents measurements, colour, clarity as well as polish and symmetry, but does not assess the light performance of the shape.

How expensive is a moval in comparison?

At the same quality the premium over an oval or a marquise is usually between ten and fifteen percent. This is due to the greater loss of material during cutting and the additional time involved.

Are movals available as lab grown diamonds?

Yes, and availability there is better, because the rough material can be laid out specifically for one shape. The price premium is correspondingly lower.

What is an old mine moval?

This is the term for old cut variants with a large culet and a smaller table. They sparkle in a softer, calmer way than modern brilliant faceting. The figures circulating about historical proportions are, however, barely documented and should be checked on the actual diamond.

Is a moval suitable for daily wear?

Yes, more so than a marquise, because the vulnerable points are absent. This requires a sufficiently strong girdle at the ends and a setting that protects that zone.

Where can I see a moval in Munich or Augsburg?

In our showrooms on Hanauer Strasse in Munich and on Jakober Strasse in Augsburg we lay out oval, moval and marquise side by side for you. Since there are no standard values for the moval, this direct comparison on the actual diamond is the only reliable way to decide.

Can I have an existing diamond recut into a moval?

In principle yes, but it is rarely sensible. Recutting always loses weight, and the starting shape has to allow for the target shape to a large extent already. We assess this case by case in our own workshop and will tell you openly when it does not add up.