Royal Asscher Diamonds: Cuts, History and Facts
At a glance
Royal Asscher diamonds are known for a square step cut with cropped corners and the famous hall of mirrors effect. The classic Royal Asscher Cut carries 74 facets – 16 more than the standard Asscher cut with 58. Alongside it are modern variants: Royal Asscher Brilliant, Oval and Cushion. At Designer Diamonds in Munich and Augsburg you'll find them as engagement rings, wedding rings and jewelry – each one handcrafted.
There are diamonds that are simply beautiful. And there are diamonds with an aura. Royal Asscher belongs firmly in the second category. Once you've seen how an Asscher cut gathers light and gives it back in clear, geometric reflections, you understand at once: this is no standard. This is attitude.
At Designer Diamonds in Munich and Augsburg, we love working with Royal Asscher diamonds. Not only because they sparkle. But because they tell a story – of tradition, of precision, of craftsmanship. That's exactly why they suit rings you choose deliberately.
What are Royal Asscher diamonds?
Royal Asscher diamonds are best known for the Asscher cut: a square step cut with cropped corners. Look down through the table and it's like a kaleidoscope of clear mirrors – the so-called hall of mirrors effect. The cut comes from Amsterdam and was developed by the Asscher family.
These natural diamonds have been worn for over 170 years, and the list of fans is impressive: from Queen Elizabeth II to Elizabeth Taylor. This cut is a piece of jewelry history.
At Designer Diamonds you'll find Royal Asscher diamonds in Munich and Augsburg – for engagement rings, wedding rings and exceptional pieces of jewelry. If you love clean lines, it's also worth a look at our diamonds in special and fancy cuts.
Royal Asscher in motion: video highlights
Royal Asscher is best understood in motion. Light. Reflections. Depth. So here are the videos right in the article:
Royal Asscher diamonds at Designer Diamonds: In Munich and Augsburg for wedding rings and engagement rings, as well as special pieces of jewelry.
The history behind Royal Asscher – Amsterdam, 1854
The cutting happens in Amsterdam, at Tolstraat 127 – since 1854, in a company that has been family-owned from the very beginning. Over 170 years of diamond cutting, passed down through six generations, with a standard that has stayed the same: quality first.
Two milestones belong to this history. The world's first patented diamond cut – the Asscher cut, developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher. And the largest diamond ever cut: the Cullinan. From the rough stone of over 3,000 carats came nine large and numerous smaller diamonds. Some adorn the crown and scepter of the British royal family to this day.
In 1980 came the royal seal: Queen Juliana of the Netherlands granted the family the honorary title "Royal". Since then the company has officially been called The Royal Asscher Company.
Why "Asscher" doesn't automatically mean "Royal Asscher"
In 1902 Joseph Asscher created the first patented diamond cut, the Asscher cut. During the Second World War, however, the company was almost destroyed – and the family lost the patent. The result: anyone who made a square emerald cut was now allowed to call it "Asscher". A bit like calling every tissue a "Kleenex". The name became a generic term, no matter who cut the diamond.
In the 1990s, Edward Asscher, then head of the family in America, stood at a trade fair. Every jeweler wanted to buy from him. It became clear: even though any cutting workshop can cut an Asscher, interest in the original is unbroken. In 1999 the time had come. After more than two years of development, the Royal Asscher cut was patented and brought to market – with optimized angles and 74 facets instead of 58.
And the "Royal" is not marketing. The Queen of the Netherlands granted the family the title for over 100 years of outstanding diamond artistry – which includes the cutting of the Cullinan. To this day, you can only get the real Royal Asscher from the Asscher family in Amsterdam. We are one of the few jewelers to carry it.
What makes Royal Asscher so special?
A family business that puts quality over profit
Royal Asscher is one of the few diamond cutters in Europe – and a family business that deliberately puts quality over quantity. With fairly traded, natural rough diamonds, the work is uncompromising: precise, demanding, at the highest level.
Anyone who chooses Royal Asscher isn't buying just any piece of jewelry, but a handcrafted one-of-a-kind – from the diamond to the finished ring. You can play through how such a unique piece comes to life in our configurator.
More facets, more fire
Now the technical part that feels like magic in everyday life: the Royal Asscher Brilliant Cut carries 74 facets – instead of 57 like a classic round brilliant. More facets mean more brilliance, more fire and fewer blind spots in the play of light.
Which shapes and cuts does Royal Asscher offer?
Royal Asscher isn't "the one" cut. There are several variants – all with the same precision and the same commitment to light performance. Important to know: the classic Royal Asscher Cut is square. The Brilliant, Oval, Cushion, Pear and Emerald variants follow other shapes and proportions – and, in some cases, different facet counts.
| Cut | Shape | Facets | Character and play of light |
|---|---|---|---|
| Royal Asscher Cut (classic) | Square, cropped corners | 74 | Step cut, hall of mirrors effect, architecturally clean |
| Royal Asscher Brilliant | Round | 74 | More fire than the standard brilliant with 57 facets, clean sparkle |
| Royal Asscher Oval | Oval | 74 | Elegant, often looks larger on the finger, lively fire |
| Royal Asscher Cushion | Cushion shape | 74 | Soft shape, extra facets on table and pavilion |
| Royal Asscher Pear | Pear shape | 78 | Inspired by the Cullinan I, lively fire, elegant length |
| Royal Asscher Emerald | Rectangular, step cut | 81 | Long, parallel facets, looks elongated on the finger |
For comparison: the standard Asscher cut has 58 facets. The classic Royal Asscher Cut has 74.
The classic Royal Asscher Cut
Almost 100 years after the original cut, the Asscher family reworked the design and added 16 facets. The result: 74 facets – inspired by the historic Cullinan diamonds in the British Crown Jewels.
This cut takes in light from almost every angle and returns it with clear depth. It combines the brilliance of a round diamond with the architectural calm of an emerald cut. Clean lines, and still that "wow" – this is your cut.
The Royal Asscher Brilliant cut
Here the brilliant gets an upgrade: more brilliance, more fire, more sparkle. With 74 facets, the typical blind spots of classic brilliants are reduced. The result is a clean, controlled fire – luxurious, not chaotic.
Whether you lean toward a round or a more unusual shape, our article shows you which diamond shape suits you best.
The Royal Asscher Oval Cut
Oval is modern, elegant and often looks larger on the finger. Royal Asscher has perfected this popular shape too – for a lively fire with a contemporary look. You'll find more unusual shapes in our article on fancy cut diamonds.
The Royal Asscher Cushion Cut
The Cushion is the modern version of the vintage cushion cut. Additional facets on the table and pavilion create more fire – exactly where classic cushion diamonds sometimes lose light. Soft shape, more power in the sparkle. If you love the vintage world, you'll also find something in our vintage jewelry.
The Royal Asscher Pear Cut
The Royal Asscher Pear is inspired by the legendary Cullinan I – the pear-shaped diamond atop the British scepter. With 78 facets and an optimized culet on the pavilion side, it shows lively fire from every angle. Elegant, modern and with a clear length that looks especially beautiful on the finger.
The Royal Asscher Emerald Cut
The Royal Asscher Emerald is a rectangular step cut with long, parallel facets – a mirrored staircase that emphasizes depth and fire. With 81 facets, seven of them on the pavilion, it looks elegantly elongated and makes the finger appear longer.
Royal Asscher engagement rings, wedding rings and special jewelry
Whether an engagement ring or a wedding ring: Royal Asscher suits people who love Art Deco, celebrate clean lines and see jewelry as a statement. In our houses in Munich and Augsburg we advise you personally – which setting shows the cut most beautifully (solitaire, halo, side baguette diamonds or vintage designs) and which diamond quality suits your budget.
Whether natural diamonds are the right choice for you is something we like to discuss in person. Bring your ideas – we'll show you what's possible.
The Royal Asscher certificate
Every Royal Asscher diamond comes with an exclusive certificate from the Asscher family. It documents the diamond's history and its special cut – proof you'll only find in this form with the original.
FAQ about Royal Asscher diamonds
1. What is a diamond in the Asscher cut?
An Asscher cut is a step cut, similar to the emerald cut, but square with cropped corners. It's famous for the hall of mirrors effect: a fascinating play of mirrors inside the diamond.
2. How does the Asscher cut differ from the emerald cut?
Both are step cuts. The Asscher is square with cropped corners, the emerald cut usually rectangular. From above, the Asscher often shows a characteristic windmill pattern.
3. Are diamonds in the Asscher cut more expensive than other cuts?
Per carat they're often cheaper than round brilliants. But the price depends heavily on color, clarity and cut quality. With Royal Asscher, the special craftsmanship and brand quality come on top.
4. Which clarity is ideal for the Asscher cut?
Since step cuts hide inclusions less well, VS2 or better is often recommended. There are exceptions. At Designer Diamonds in Munich and Augsburg we help you find a diamond that convinces not only on the certificate but also to the naked eye.
5. Why does the classic square Royal Asscher cut sometimes look smaller at the same carat weight?
With the classic square Royal Asscher cut, a large part of the weight sits below the surface because of its depth. This can make the diamond look smaller on the finger than flatter cuts of the same carat weight. This characteristic applies only to the square cut: the Royal Asscher Brilliant, Oval and Cushion variants follow different proportions and are not affected in the same way.
6. What is a good ratio of table to depth?
As a guideline, often: table around 60 to 70 percent and depth around 60 to 68 percent. These proportions support strong light performance and a harmonious overall look.
7. Is Royal Asscher a good choice for engagement rings?
Yes – especially in vintage or Art Deco inspired settings. The geometric shape looks very refined and stands out clearly from standard brilliants.
8. How does color affect the appearance?
The large, open facets make color tones more visible. Those who want a particularly white appearance therefore often choose a higher color grade, such as G or better.
9. Which settings suit it best?
From solitaire to halo, from vintage to modern: the Asscher looks stunning in many settings. Especially beautiful are designs with side baguette diamonds or clean lines that emphasize the architecture of the cut.
10. Is an Asscher cut suitable for everyday wear?
Diamonds are very hard. The cropped corners are also less vulnerable than sharp corners, as on the princess cut. Still: avoid hard knocks and wear the ring consciously.
A cut for people with taste – and for moments that last
Royal Asscher is not the diamond for "someday". It's for the moment when you say: this is it. For engagement rings with personality. For wedding rings that remind you of something special every day.
If you want to see Royal Asscher live – and you do – then come to Designer Diamonds in Munich or Augsburg. We'll show you the differences between the cuts, talk about certificates, proportions and settings, and together we'll find the diamond that not only fits but delights you anew every time.
