Portuguese Cut Diamond: 161 Facets Few People Know About

 

The Portuguese Cut, Briefly Explained

A Portuguese cut diamond is a round diamond with an exceptionally high facet count. 161 facets are the standard. Some variations exceed 200. For comparison: the modern round brilliant cut has 57 facets.

This density fundamentally changes the light performance. A round brilliant throws broad, powerful flashes of light. A Portuguese cut breaks the light into countless small reflections. The result: a deep, almost shimmering sparkle that rearranges itself with every movement. Many describe it as a kaleidoscope. Anyone who has seen it next to a round brilliant understands the difference immediately.

The Portuguese cut therefore belongs to the family of diamonds in special shapes. Not a standard. A deliberate choice.

History: Lisbon, Brazil and the 18th Century

The origin of the cut is not fully documented. The most plausible trail leads to Portugal. In the early 18th century, large diamond deposits were discovered in Minas Gerais. Brazil was a Portuguese colony at the time. Rough diamonds flowed into Lisbon in large quantities, and the city became a center of the European diamond trade.

Cutters began adding more and more facets. The goal: maximum sparkle by candlelight, in an era without electric lighting. From this tradition emerged the cut that carries the name Portuguese cut today.

In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky defined the proportions of the modern round brilliant cut. Easier to calculate, more efficient to produce. The round brilliant became the global standard. The Portuguese cut disappeared almost entirely. Today it is returning, driven by the desire for individuality and by cutters who have mastered this precision work once again.

Not to be confused: the famous "Portuguese Diamond" in the Smithsonian Institution is a diamond of just over 127 carats in an octagonal cut. It shares nothing with the Portuguese cut but the name.

Facet Architecture and Light Performance

The Structure

The additional rows of facets are the defining feature: typically two rows of rhombic facets and three rows of triangular facets above and below the girdle. Add to that another row of facets on the crown. The table is smaller than on a round brilliant, the pavilion deeper.

As a result, light passes through more internal planes before being reflected back to the eye. Each plane refracts and scatters. This is precisely what creates the dispersion the cut makes so visible: the fire, those colorful flashes in white light.

Fire and Brilliance Compared to the Round Brilliant Cut

Feature	Round Brilliant Cut	Portuguese Cut
Facets	57	161 to over 200
Light pattern	Broad, powerful flashes of light	Dense, kaleidoscopic sparkle
Fire	Strong, depending on cut quality	Highly present thanks to many small facets
Proportions	Standardized since Tolkowsky	Smaller table, deeper pavilion
Carat weight	Standard ratio to diameter	More carat weight per diameter due to depth
Availability	Anytime, in any size	Rare, usually a custom order

Important to know: like all fancy cut diamonds, the Portuguese cut receives no cut grade on its certificate. No laboratory can replace the assessment of cut quality. It takes a trained eye on the actual diamond.

Why the Portuguese Cut Is So Rare

Three reasons.

Material loss. The deep proportions and the small table cost rough material. A cutter sacrifices carat weight for light performance. On a rough diamond, that is an expensive decision.

Precision. 161 facets must meet symmetrically. Every single one. One deviation disrupts the pattern, and the eye sees it. Only a few cutting houses master this work at a high level.

Demand. The mass market wants round brilliants. A cut that costs more and demands more skill remains a niche. That is exactly what makes it interesting for people looking for something not everyone wears. If rare cuts fascinate you, the criss cut and the Dutch marquise cut are two kindred characters.

The Portuguese Cut in an Engagement Ring

The cut is round. It therefore fits almost any classic ring design: solitaire with four or six prongs, halo, bezel setting. The difference lies not in the shape but in the effect. A Portuguese cut engagement ring sparkles denser, deeper, more restless in the best sense. By candlelight, it shows what it was once cut for.

Because of the deeper pavilion, the setting needs a little more height. That is craftsmanship, not an obstacle. With our engagement rings, the setting is adapted to the individual diamond anyway, not the other way around. The cut also works in wedding rings and wedding bands, for example as a central accent in a slim ring.

Whether the Portuguese cut suits you is a question of type. Our article on which diamond shape suits you helps you decide. And if you want to develop your design from scratch, start in the configurator and discuss the diamond with us in person afterwards.

Natural, Lab Grown or Moissanite

The Portuguese cut exists in three material worlds. As a natural diamond, it is rarest. Only a few cutting houses produce it, usually to order. As a lab grown diamond, it is far more available. The precision cutting houses specializing in lab grown now offer the cut regularly. Chemically and optically, both are identical. We explain the differences in our comparison of lab grown and natural diamonds.

Moissanite in the Portuguese cut is widely available online. A material of its own, with its own, considerably stronger dispersion. If you love the rainbow-like fire of a moissanite, you get it here in maximum form. A diamond it is not.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Portuguese Cut Diamond

What is a Portuguese cut diamond?

A round diamond cut with 161 or more facets. The additional rows of facets create a dense, kaleidoscopic sparkle that differs clearly from the round brilliant cut.

How many facets does a Portuguese cut have?

Usually 161. Depending on the execution, 177 or over 200 facets are also possible. A modern round brilliant has 57 facets by comparison.

Where does the Portuguese cut get its name?

Most likely from the era when Lisbon became a center of the diamond trade after the Brazilian diamond discoveries of the 18th century. The origin is not fully documented.

Is the Portuguese cut an antique cut?

It has historical roots but is cut today with modern precision technology. Current specimens are new productions, not antiques.

Does a Portuguese cut sparkle more than a round brilliant?

It sparkles differently. Instead of a few large flashes, it shows many small, densely set reflections with visible fire. Whether that is "more" is for your own eye to decide, ideally in a direct comparison.

Why is the Portuguese cut so rare?

High material loss, extreme demands on symmetry and low demand in the mass market. Only a few cutting houses produce it at a high level.

Is a Portuguese cut more expensive than a round brilliant?

Relative to carat weight, usually yes. The cut consumes more rough material and more working time. In addition, due to the deep proportions, more carat weight sits in the depth rather than in the visible diameter.

Does a Portuguese cut receive a cut grade on the certificate?

No. Laboratories only assign a cut grade to round brilliants with standard faceting. The quality of a Portuguese cut is judged on the actual diamond.

Is the Portuguese cut suitable for an engagement ring?

Very much so. It is round and fits classic settings, but the deeper pavilion requires a setting height adapted to it. A custom-made ring, where the setting follows the diamond, is a clear advantage here.

Are Portuguese cut diamonds available as lab grown?

Yes, and that is where availability is best. Lab grown diamonds in the Portuguese cut are offered regularly by specialized precision cutting houses.

Where can I buy a Portuguese cut diamond?

You will practically never find it in a regular jeweler's assortment. What makes sense is a jeweler who can source rare cuts on request and show them in person. That is exactly how we work at Designer Diamonds in Munich and Augsburg: sourced, examined together at the table.

Can I have a ring made with a Portuguese cut?

Yes. We build the ring around the diamond, with a setting adapted to its proportions. From the first sketch to the finished ring, all from one source.